Running Hot Over 70mph !

[cartman]

Well to start at the beginning, I had a replacement engine put in a year ago, Had them put a new clutch and water pump in at the same time.....For peace of mind. Anyhow 5 months later the water pump became noisy and was changed under warranty, All was fine for a further 5 months when the car started to get warm over 70 mph ......Took it back to the garage (15 miles from home) where they found a leaky pipe at the back of the engine !! However on the way home (motorway) it was evident the problem was still there. A further 2 visits to the garage resulted in them saying it was probably a partially blocked rad and to use my heaters when it got warm and see how it went..... Because of the distance to the garage i booked it into a local garage, Who diagnosed a sticky thermostat......This was replaced at a cost of

[Smilge]

It may be something as simple as the expansion tank cap not sealing correctly bearing in mind everything else has been changed Cartman. Could even be air in the system as these things are a bugger to bleed from all accounts.

[cartman]

Cheers for the quick reply "Bleeno"

 

Regarding the rad cap...I'm assuming this is ok as the pipes from the rad become pressurized, And when the car is hot the undoing of the cap results in hot water gushing through the overflow pipe over the gearbox. And although an airlock is a possibility...I would have hoped out of the 2 garages that 1 of them knew how to bleed it properly......But i do recall once while hot the heaters blew cold until i backed off the speed and the needle returned to an acceptable level, then they returned to warm/hot.

 

Also noticed the car has been harder to start in the morning (dunno if this is connected to the fault)

 

Thanks again

[Willie Krashitt]

Something else worth checking that happened to me on a Golf I once had. The radiator hose delaminated internally! (The hose from radiator to water pump). Externally all looked perfect, and at low engine speeds all appeared ok. However, at higher speed, I can only assume that the pipe would suck itself flat and stop the flow. Having been through the new stat etc route, this was suggested to me by a VW technician, saying he had seen several do it, and nearly always after the water had been drained from the system. (I had changed the coolant 3 months earlier).

New bottom hose cured the problem completely.

 

George,

[tim-spam]

Also noticed the car has been harder to start in the morning (dunno if this is connected to the fault)

Head gasket?

[cartman]

Cheers for the reply "Willie"

 

That sounds so plausible it has to be right, I'll take this news to the garage and get them to change that pipe......I really feel confident your right.

 

I'll let you know the outcome.

 

Again many many thanks "Willie"

[cartman]

Also noticed the car has been harder to start in the morning (dunno if this is connected to the fault)

Head gasket?

Cheers "Tim-Spam"

A mechanic did suggest this but couldn't find any evidence to support it. I'm hoping its as "Willie" said, The bottom pipe.......If not then it can only be the head gasket and/or the engine at fault.

 

Fingers crossed its the pipe.

[Smilge]

Possible head gasket Tim .....I would go with the water pump ..... It all went wrong from that point on.

[jackspud]

well i'm still in the same boat, so far fitted all temp sensors,pressure cap,expansion bottle,thermostat - twice, flushed system - twice,stripped and checked water pump, stripped car to check radiator and still it gets hot and pumps the coolant out when you are on the motorway, its perfect round town. next i am going to buy 1 gallon of super unleaded and a box of matches i have been told this will fix it ^_^ if i ever fix it i will let you all know as a lot of people are having the same problem.

[Smilge]

Right gents ..... If I was in the same boat I would go and get the system pressurised by a professional which would highlight the problem. Sounds more and more like the head gasket is leaking gases into the coolant system. The pressure check will confirm this.

[zorgman]

well i had a overheat on sat gauge went up to the m on norm and steam appeared from car had a look and felt top hose it was cold so ran both my heaters on full belt and down the temp came, got a new thermostat and wipped the old one out. first thing spotted was the stat was fitted wrong way round, second test at 100deg c it was still shut wereas new one wide open, now the car runs with needle on the N. now ive thought on that since i got the car last december its ran with the stat fault all the time and was purely the heaters keeping car cool

[latrine]

Zorgman - how easy is it to change the thermostat?

[cartman]

Well as a bit of an update.........Though still no cure found !!!

The car has been in the garage(s) a few more times, The head has had 2 separate checks, pressure and chemical sniff....all appears to be well.

I've had the rad hoses checked...Again nothing obvious, The car seems to be slightly worse, Now getting up to the "M" on normal roads on fast acceleration. I've been kind of hoping someone would pull out in front of me so i can put her into RAM mode lol........ But no such luck. Anyway she's back in the garage on wed (Hopefully) This time i'm going to refuse to take her back until the problems sorted, Even though the warranty has expired ( I'm hoping its still covered as an ongoing problem thats not been rectified )

Every mechanic i've spoken to are at a loss as to whats causing this problem.......Since just about the whole cooling system has been replaced. One said it could be the engine "worn". But surely that wouldn't happen so fast ??

 

I like the car but its giving me a lot of grief, Not to mention expense.

Anyway i will post back.

[jackspud]

Well as a bit of an update.........Though still no cure found !!!

The car has been in the garage(s) a few more times, The head has had 2 separate checks, pressure and chemical sniff....all appears to be well.

I've had the rad hoses checked...Again nothing obvious, The car seems to be slightly worse, Now getting up to the "M" on normal roads on fast acceleration. I've been kind of hoping someone would pull out in front of me so i can put her into RAM mode lol........ But no such luck. Anyway she's back in the garage on wed (Hopefully) This time i'm going to refuse to take her back until the problems sorted, Even though the warranty has expired ( I'm hoping its still covered as an ongoing problem thats not been rectified )

Every mechanic i've spoken to are at a loss as to whats causing this problem.......Since just about the whole cooling system has been replaced. One said it could be the engine "worn". But surely that wouldn't happen so fast ??

 

I like the car but its giving me a lot of grief, Not to mention expense.

Anyway i will post back.

 

hi just an update to my problem of overheating as i have now cured it. but it cost be

[jkspoff]

The thing you mentioned above about the gush of air from the expansion bottle when cold, no mechanic I have spoken to has diagnosed this as a sign of a cracked head, I take it this is, or could be, the case for others ? As this is exactly what mine is like.

[big_kev]

It was the head that was worped and had 2 small micro cracks leading to a waterway.

 

ps i fitted a brand new head, bolts head set and head gasket.

 

Do you think this could have been caused by the engine being chipped ?

 

Just a thought.

[jkspoff]

I would agree with bigkev on that one, as I found out today. Make sure its not been chipped or has a boost box somewhere.

 

http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...13206&st=45

[jackspud]

I would agree with bigkev on that one, as I found out today. Make sure its not been chipped or has a boost box somewhere.

 

http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...13206&st=45

possible could be the chip that started the problem, and i do have a heavy right foot. the old girl does not get an easy life with me. i go everywhere at 85 mph on motorways. so its possible its my own doing. shes running like a new one again so i'm contented with it at the minute.just lucky i did all the work myself and saved a small fortune.

[cartman]

Has it been known for an after-market water pump impeller to slip on its shaft ??

 

The reason i ask this is when i took her to the garage, A curious thing happened, I got on the motorway and accelerated slowly up to 65........Knowing the gauge would point to the "m" of norm, But i was surprised to see the temp stay at the "o" for 2 junctions (about 8 miles), I then came to an incline and applied more gas.......This resulted in the temp gauge quickly rise to above the "m" and had to slow down to 40mph to control it. After this the temp never went below the "r", And even sitting in traffic the temp went up to the "m"......Never had that before !!!. Then on reaching the garage the temp stayed at between the "o" and "r".

 

Had the car not have had a new pump fitted i would have thought these were classic symptoms of the pumps impeller slipping on its shaft !!!

 

 

Thanks again for any input.

[cartman]

Well just to update....And to let you know its still not sorted.

The garage have had the car nearly 2 weeks now, And I've had to hire a car......Again !!!. Spoke to the garage yesterday and he mentioned a heater valve ??? (anyone heard of this). Then he mentioned about looking at the water-pump.

 

Any way I'll update soon as i know anything.

[cartman]

Well its SORTED .....Not sure what was causing it, But they took the head off and skimmed it, then replaced the gasket for a thicker one.

Wierd how it passed all the tests on the head !!!

 

But the saga isnt quite over.........Took it for a drive today and the turbo pipe behind the head popped off, They couldnt have put it on properly. Whats more it looks a right bitch to get at,

Still thats for them to sort first thing tomorrow.

 

 

Cheers all.

[seatkid]

Warped head - causing pressure leak into water system etc etc. Could be the replacement engine was not rebuilt correctly or to very high standards, or has been running on low water or had faulty water cooling system.

 

Usually a head rebuild should be re-torqued after a thousand miles or so after the head/gasket has bedded in.